Mountain Bike Chain Alignment. Yes, it does: distance between each of the front chainwheels (small, medium, large) and the frame (rear lower fork), distance between chain and the rear [fat] wheel, distance between the inside of the innermost front chainwheel and the BB frame tube (when small chainwheel internal diameter is smaller then outside diameter of the BB frame tube. If the OLD is only a few mm greater, you can almost always use the same.
An angled relationship of sprockets front to rear is tantamont to "cross chaining" (running inside and outside chain rings of front & rear derailliers at the same time) of the pedal side drive on a multi-speed bicycle & an angled chain should be avoided on the motor drive chain line as well. With the bike held off the ground, and the chain now on the largest cog at the back, test the front derailleur by moving the chain between the smallest and next chainring using the gear lever. With the quick-release lever on the opposite side of the bicycle chain, slide the skewer through the front-wheel axle..
A new chain and worn out cassette won't mesh well and may cause a new chain to wear out quickly!
However, this is a much longer more detailed discussion when talking exact numbers because of different rear hub spacing (road, road disc, mountain, fat) and tire/chainstay clearance.
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Align It: If your chain doesn't move when you shift, or it skips cogs, your rear derailleur may be out of alignment. This includes the shifters, chain, front and rear derailleur, the cassette and crankset. Seb's been riding and racing mountain bikes for half his life.